So I've been having this issue pretty much since I got my 1985 corvette but have been tending to the bigger issues (new engine and braking system) and simply replacing fuse after fuse as if my car is a child with a strong urge for 10 amp candy. Jokes aside I fear this might actually have something to do with the torque converter clutch (TCC) not working properly and overloading the fuse which sets everything else involved out of whack. The reason I think this is the root of the problem is because after a painstaking effort to try to find a list of the things connected to that fuse and then looking up the troubleshooting of each part, I happen upon the TCC troubleshoot which states
"A TCC that does not disengage can cause the car to stall much as leaving the clutch engaged in top gear on a manual transmission can cause the engine to stall if you reduce speed beyond a certain point.
If your car wants to die as you slow down but recovers if you slip it into neutral, the TCC may not be disengaging.
A TCC that does not engage to begin with can result in lower than expected average MPG since the drive train will have more slippage in the path to the rear wheels and therefore a loss of efficiency.
If you suspect the TCC is not engaging, perform this test: warm the car up to more than 149 degrees coolant temperature and hold a constant amount of throttle with a speed above 55 MPH for a minute or so.
Lightly tap the brakes (not enough to appreciably slow the car, just enough to flash the brake lights) and the engine RPM should rise 100 to 200 RPM immediately after you tap the brakes.
If it does, the TCC has disengaged which means it must have engaged to begin with. If you do not see any difference in the engine RPM, you have a problem with the TCC, the solenoid that controls it, one of the sensors that the ECM/PCM monitors, a wiring harness problem or the ECM/PCM itself.
To totally troubleshoot the system, you need a scan tool and then follow the troubleshooting tree in the service manual.
Since few DIY (Do It Yourselfers) have a way to work on the THM 700 automatic transmission, repairs will probably be limited to replacing defective sensors, adjusting or replacing the overdrive or brake switches or adjusting the throttle position sensor.
If all the switches and sensors are working correctly, the problem is either in the ECM/PCM, associated harnesses or the transmission."
So this sounds very close to what my car feels like even before the fuse blows and once it does of course everything else connected goes bad with it and all there is to show for the problem is a code 33 (MAF) which is vague at best when you bring up all the things connected to that one fuse. After a few attempts to find the problem with the engine I've realized that the engine is fine and even the fuel injection seems to work very well. So before I take the plunge and attempt replacing the ECM/PCM I wanted to hear other peoples opinions or share their own experiences with this matter. Anything helps!
Thanks
"A TCC that does not disengage can cause the car to stall much as leaving the clutch engaged in top gear on a manual transmission can cause the engine to stall if you reduce speed beyond a certain point.
If your car wants to die as you slow down but recovers if you slip it into neutral, the TCC may not be disengaging.
A TCC that does not engage to begin with can result in lower than expected average MPG since the drive train will have more slippage in the path to the rear wheels and therefore a loss of efficiency.
If you suspect the TCC is not engaging, perform this test: warm the car up to more than 149 degrees coolant temperature and hold a constant amount of throttle with a speed above 55 MPH for a minute or so.
Lightly tap the brakes (not enough to appreciably slow the car, just enough to flash the brake lights) and the engine RPM should rise 100 to 200 RPM immediately after you tap the brakes.
If it does, the TCC has disengaged which means it must have engaged to begin with. If you do not see any difference in the engine RPM, you have a problem with the TCC, the solenoid that controls it, one of the sensors that the ECM/PCM monitors, a wiring harness problem or the ECM/PCM itself.
To totally troubleshoot the system, you need a scan tool and then follow the troubleshooting tree in the service manual.
Since few DIY (Do It Yourselfers) have a way to work on the THM 700 automatic transmission, repairs will probably be limited to replacing defective sensors, adjusting or replacing the overdrive or brake switches or adjusting the throttle position sensor.
If all the switches and sensors are working correctly, the problem is either in the ECM/PCM, associated harnesses or the transmission."
So this sounds very close to what my car feels like even before the fuse blows and once it does of course everything else connected goes bad with it and all there is to show for the problem is a code 33 (MAF) which is vague at best when you bring up all the things connected to that one fuse. After a few attempts to find the problem with the engine I've realized that the engine is fine and even the fuel injection seems to work very well. So before I take the plunge and attempt replacing the ECM/PCM I wanted to hear other peoples opinions or share their own experiences with this matter. Anything helps!
Thanks
Fuse #9 (gauges) keeps getting blown. PLEASE HELP!
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